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Bezel

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(BEZ-uhl)

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A bezel is the ring surrounding the watch face, which can be fixed, rotating for functionality like timing, fluted for decorative purposes, or made of ceramic for durability and scratch resistance.

What does

Bezel

mean?

A bezel is an essential component of a watch, encircling the dial and serving both functional and aesthetic purposes. There are various types of bezels, each offering unique features and benefits. A fixed bezel is stationary and primarily serves decorative purposes, often enhancing the watch's overall design. In contrast, a rotating bezel is functional, commonly found on diving watches. It allows the wearer to track elapsed time by aligning the zero marker with the minute hand, aiding in time management during dives.

Fluted bezels are characterized by their grooved design, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication. This type of bezel is often associated with luxury watches and can also serve a practical purpose by providing a better grip for setting the time or winding the watch.

Ceramic bezels are known for their durability and resistance to scratches and fading. They maintain their appearance over time, making them a popular choice for sports and luxury watches alike. Ceramic bezels can be either fixed or rotating, combining functionality with a sleek, modern look. Each type of bezel contributes to the watch's functionality, style, and durability, catering to diverse preferences and needs in horology.
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Frequently Asked Questions

What is a watch bezel?

The bezel is the ring surrounding the watch crystal (glass) that holds it in place against the case. Beyond this structural function, bezels serve decorative and functional roles: dive watch bezels have elapsed-time markings, tachymeter bezels measure speed, GMT bezels track a second time zone. Bezels can be fixed, unidirectional rotating, or bidirectional rotating depending on their function.

Why are dive watch bezels unidirectional?

Dive watch bezels rotate only counterclockwise as a critical safety feature. A diver sets the bezel's zero marker at the minute hand when descending to track elapsed dive time. If the bezel is accidentally knocked during the dive, it can only rotate counterclockwise, making the elapsed time appear longer than it is—causing the diver to surface earlier than necessary. A bidirectional accidental knock could show less time elapsed, potentially causing dangerous overstays.

What materials are used for watch bezels?

Stainless steel bezels are most common, available in polished or brushed finishes. Ceramic bezels (found on modern Rolex Submariner, GMT-Master II, and Omega Seamaster) offer extreme scratch resistance and deep, stable color that doesn't fade. Aluminum bezels (used on vintage dive watches) show more wear character over time. Gold, platinum, and diamond-set bezels appear on dress and jewelry watches. Hardened sapphire crystal bezels offer maximum scratch immunity.

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