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Double-Signed Dial

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(duhb-uhl-sahynd dahyl)

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Watch dial featuring signatures of both the manufacturer and retailer, indicating collaboration and often increasing collectibility.

What does

Double-Signed Dial

mean?

A double-signed dial in watchmaking refers to a watch dial that bears the signatures of both the manufacturer and the retailer. This practice originated in the early 20th century when watch manufacturers relied on a network of trusted retailers to sell their products in various markets worldwide. Retailers were sometimes allowed to add their own signature to the watch dial, typically at the six or twelve o'clock position, to enhance the watch's appeal to local collectors. Double-signed dials became less common by the 1990s as manufacturers began managing their own retail outlets. However, the allure of such collaborations has persisted, with double-signed watches often being highly sought after by collectors due to their rarity, provenance, and the added historical context they provide. Notable examples include collaborations between brands like Patek Philippe and retailers such as Tiffany & Co. and Cartier. These watches are often seen as unique pieces that offer a glimpse into the history of both the watchmaking and retailing industries, making them particularly valuable in the eyes of collectors.
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Frequently Asked Questions

What is a double-signed dial?

A double-signed dial features both the manufacturer's signature (e.g., Patek Philippe, Rolex) and the retailer's signature (e.g., Tiffany & Co., Cartier) on the dial. This practice was common in the early-to-mid 20th century when prestigious retailers co-branded watches, adding exclusivity and local market appeal.

Are double-signed watches more valuable?

Yes, significantly. Double-signed watches command substantial premiums over single-signed equivalents due to rarity, historical provenance, and the prestige of famous retailer partnerships. A Rolex with Tiffany & Co. double-signature can be worth 2-3x more than a standard example, sometimes reaching auction records for certain combinations.

Which double-signed combinations are most sought-after?

The most prized combinations include Patek Philippe/Tiffany & Co., Rolex/Tiffany, Rolex/Cartier, Vacheron Constantin/Cartier, and Audemars Piguet/Bulgari. Mid-century collaborations with prominent retailers are especially valuable. Rarity, condition, and the specific model significantly affect premiums, with some achieving over $1 million at auction.

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Close-up of a Himalayan Project wristwatch with a gray and pink dial and a fabric strap with a pink stripe.

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