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Ébauche

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Ébauche refers to a partially assembled watch movement, which includes the main components but lacks the final finishing and assembly required to complete the timepiece.

What does

Ébauche

mean?

Ébauche refers to the set of raw, unfinished components of a watch movement, which are produced by specialized manufacturers and supplied to watchmakers for further assembly and finishing. In the world of horology, an ébauche typically includes the basic parts necessary for a watch movement, such as the main plate, bridges, gear train, and sometimes the escapement. These components are not yet assembled or finely adjusted, allowing watchmakers to customize and refine them according to their specific requirements and standards.

The use of ébauches allows watchmakers to focus on the artistry and precision of finishing and assembling the movement, rather than the initial production of each individual part. This practice has been particularly prevalent in the Swiss watch industry, where many renowned brands have historically relied on ébauche manufacturers to supply the foundational elements of their timepieces. By starting with an ébauche, watchmakers can ensure a high level of craftsmanship and quality control, as they can apply their expertise in regulating, decorating, and assembling the movement to achieve the desired performance and aesthetic. The term "ébauche" underscores the collaborative nature of watchmaking, where different specialists contribute to the creation of a finely crafted timepiece.
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Frequently Asked Questions

What is an ébauche?

An ébauche is a partially complete, unfinished watch movement — the basic mechanical skeleton including main plate, bridges, gear train, and sometimes the escapement — produced by specialist manufacturers and supplied to watch brands for finishing and assembly. It represents the raw foundation upon which watchmakers apply finishing, regulation, and brand-specific customization.

What are the main ébauche suppliers?

ETA (Swatch Group subsidiary) is the world's largest ébauche supplier, producing movements used across brands from Tissot to TAG Heuer. Sellita is the main independent alternative. Selitta SW200 mirrors the ETA 2824. Kenissi (Tudor/Rolex) supplies movements to Breitling and Chanel. Using an ébauche versus in-house manufacturing is a major point of differentiation in the industry.

Does using an ébauche mean a watch is inferior?

Not necessarily. Many excellent watches use ébauche movements — the finishing, casing, and brand execution determine quality. A beautifully finished ETA or Sellita movement in a well-made case can outperform a poorly finished in-house caliber. However, in-house movements typically represent greater investment, exclusivity, and proprietary engineering, which matters to collectors and commands premium pricing.

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