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Fumè refers to a watch dial finish that features a gradient effect, transitioning from a lighter center to a darker edge, creating a smoky appearance.
Fumé, derived from the French word for "smoked," refers to a specific style of watch dial that features a gradient effect. This design technique involves a gradual transition of color, typically from a darker shade at the outer edges of the dial to a lighter shade towards the center. The fumé dial is renowned for its visually striking appearance, adding depth and dimension to the watch face. This effect is achieved through meticulous craftsmanship, often involving multiple layers of lacquer or enamel applied to the dial. The fumé style gained popularity in the 1970s and has seen a resurgence in modern watchmaking, appreciated for its aesthetic appeal and the unique character it imparts to timepieces. Watch brands like H. Moser & Cie and anOrdain are known for their exquisite fumé dials, which are often considered a hallmark of luxury and sophistication in horology.


A fumé dial features a gradient effect that transitions from darker edges to a lighter center (or vice versa), creating a 'smoked' or sunburst appearance. This is achieved through multiple layers of lacquer or enamel applied with precision, creating depth and visual interest that changes with lighting angles.
H. Moser & Cie and anOrdain are particularly renowned for their fumé dials, often using traditional enamel techniques. H. Moser's signature fumé dials have become iconic in modern independent watchmaking, while anOrdain creates vibrant fumé enamels in small-batch production using centuries-old craftsmanship.
Fumé dials require meticulous application of multiple lacquer or enamel layers, with each layer fired separately. The gradient effect is created by varying the density of pigment from center to edge or controlling the firing process. This labor-intensive technique can take days per dial and demands exceptional skill to achieve smooth, even transitions.

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