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Jewels

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Jewels in watchmaking refer to small, synthetic ruby or sapphire bearings used to reduce friction and wear in the movement of a watch.

What does

Jewels

mean?

Jewels in watchmaking refer to small, synthetic gemstones, typically made of ruby or sapphire, used as bearings in a watch movement. These jewels are crucial components in the construction of a watch, serving to reduce friction between the moving parts, such as the gears and pivots, thereby enhancing the accuracy and longevity of the timepiece. The hardness and smoothness of these gemstones make them ideal for minimizing wear and tear, ensuring that the watch operates smoothly over time.

In a mechanical watch, jewels are strategically placed at points where there is significant movement and potential for friction. Commonly, they are found in the escapement mechanism, which is responsible for regulating the release of energy from the mainspring to the gear train. The number of jewels in a watch can vary, with basic movements having as few as 17 jewels, while more complex movements, such as those with additional complications, may contain 20 or more.

The use of jewels in watchmaking dates back to the 18th century and remains a hallmark of quality in modern horology. While the presence of jewels is not a direct indicator of a watch's quality, it often signifies a well-crafted movement designed for precision and durability.
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Frequently Asked Questions

What are jewels in a watch movement?

Jewels in watches are synthetic rubies or sapphires used as bearings at friction points within the movement — pivot holes, pallet stones, and impulse jewels. Their extreme hardness and smooth surface minimize friction and wear, extending movement longevity. Modern jewels are all synthetic (lab-grown), providing consistent quality without the brittleness of natural stones.

How many jewels should a watch have?

A standard mechanical movement needs 17 jewels to cover all critical pivot points. More complex movements (with date, chronograph, etc.) need more — 25-30 is common. Beyond functional jewels, some manufacturers add non-functional 'decorative' jewels to inflate counts. 17 functional jewels is the benchmark for a properly jeweled movement.

Do more jewels mean better quality?

Not beyond the functional minimum. 17 jewels covers all necessary bearing points; additional jewels beyond that number are often decorative or used in complications. In the mid-20th century, some manufacturers used excessive jewel counts as marketing. Quality depends on movement design, materials, and finishing — not jewel count alone.

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