There are only a few characters in the watch industry that are truly larger than life.
I’m talking about people that break the mould in a business that on the surface, promotes creativity and personal expression, but underneath can stifle it with out-of-date values. The usual characters I come across are suit and tie wearing stuffed potatoes, people that you absolutely wouldn’t want to sit next to at a dinner party. I do feel, however, that we are starting to move away from this period of conservatism, and more towards the colourful individualism that the rest of the world is experiencing. No more are we confined to the traditions of a 100 year old industry. Uniform included.
There is one man leading the way in this new wave of individualism, a man that I would not only sit next to, but probably smoke a joint with at said dinner party. That man is the one and only Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution and The Rake.
It’s refreshing, to say the least, to see a prominent figure in the watch industry wearing a Hawaiian shirt rather than a grey single-breasted special from Saville Rowe.
This is a rather odd way to start an article about a new independent brand, I admit, but my mission for The Subdial is to promote “unpretentious” watch culture after all. And Wei is just about the most unpretentious guy in the industry. He simply doesn’t give a shit, and I love it.
I recently watched his interview with fresh-on-the-scene independent watchmaker Simon Brette. Wei's slightly chaotic energy paired so well with Simon’s laid back, humble demeanour and the two got along like a house on fire. I felt like I was siting there at the table, just the three of us, shooting banter back and forth about watches and life.
In the video they speak about the philosophies behind Simon Brette's first watch The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription, his amazing team of craftspeople and why he chose to structure his company like a co-operative. It's a fascinating watch and I highly recommend you check it out.
Who Is Simon Brette?
It's not often that a new watch brand ignites a spark deep down inside me. It's a strange thing to lust after an object made by someone you've never met, but feel like you've known all our life. Simon is the newest member of the (entirely made up by me), ‘independent watch god club’ that includes people like Rexhep Rexhepi, Kari Voutilainen, Max Busser and Roger Smith. Quite a group, and one that he absolutely deserves to be a part of. I haven’t seen a new personality burst onto the scene at this level, maybe, ever.
In his early years, Simon was exposed to independent craftsmanship through his father, a carpenter by trade. You can absolutely see the influence of his father in his debut watch The Chronomètre Artisans. See the bowtie spline in the image below, an element that is often seen in Japanese joinery called a Nakashima joint. It's an incredibly strong woodworking technique and takes years to get right. I love that he's paying homage to his father here.
After finishing his training as a watchmaker in 2011, Simon spent time honing his craft working for brands like Chronode, MCT and MB&F. Until eventually, when his daughter was born in 2011, he decided to go back to his family roots and strike out on his own. You might think this would be a difficult decision, to give up the stability of working for an established company and become independent. But In all honesty, it probably wasn't. When you are as creative and driven as Simon is, it’s hardly a decision at all. Plus kids make it difficult to hold down a 9-5...trust me.
What Is The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription
The importance of human values in Simon Brette's watchmaking is paramount and interestingly, this philosophy has lead him down the path not of the typical loupe wearing, reclusive watchmaker but rather a brand owner that brings together creative talent to help him fulfil his vision. Simon Brette is less of a brand and more of a cooperative. His philosophy of bringing together the most talented artists in their fields to make something without compromise sounds familiar when you think of the brands he used to work for. MB&F in particular, is a brand that was founded on this very principle. Max Busser is a creative yes, but he's also a great at bringing together friends.
In a way, this is a traditional way of thinking about watch production. Hire the people at the top of their game and have them do what they are best at. Knowing your limitations is often the best way to create something spectacular.
‘In-House’ isn’t always the best way to do things.
The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription, Simons first model, is a distillation of his personal history, professional experience and the collective skills of his collaborators.
The watch has a case in zirconium with rose gold details. The dial has an incredible ‘dragon scale’ engraving in gold and opens to reveal the incredible finishing of the gear trains below. I’ll get into the nitty-gritty on the watch in part two of this series, but I will just mention one thing that I noticed as soon as I saw it.
There’s no part of this watch that has lacked any attention.
On some pieces, you can see that the majority of the time and care has been spent on one aspect. The finishing of the movement over the case dimensions, for example. We can’t focus on all things at all times, we're only human.
With The Chronomètre Artisans, however, the real value is that every single part has been obsessed over by someone who’s only job is to get it right.
Every part is a work of art that adds to the whole.
If I can’t have the entire watch, I’ll just take one of the incredible concave screw heads. Thanks, Simon!
What Is A Souscription Watch?
I’ve seen this term pop up in a few watches lately, and until now, I haven’t known what it meant. A quick google searched cleansed me of my ignorance.
In 1796, Abraham Louis Breguet, the legendary inventor of the tourbillon, created the first-ever pocket watch with one hand on the dial.
When offering this watch, he required his clients to pay an initial deposit. This covered the manufacturing costs and allowed him to produce something that he otherwise wouldn’t be able to afford. It was basically a more credible version of Kickstarter from the 18th century.
Breguet wrote ‘souscription’ in his books when taking these orders, I guess the name stuck.
This is a great way to bootstrap your way to a watch company, although I wonder how it would work if you didn’t already have a reputation within the industry like Simon does.
Simon Brette Is A Man Of His People.
We’ve all seen it, a wooly haired conductor standing in front of a few dozen musicians. Wildly flailing their arms around in a pattern that seems like random. It looks, to me at least, like the movements of that stick have no discernible effect on the music we hear. But somehow, the bringing together of artists by this one person bears the fruit of music so beautiful that you forget you’re as uncultured as me.
To me, Simon Brette is a conductor. And no, I don’t mean he has wooly hair and wildly unpredictable arms. Although I don’t know him very well, so that may be the case…
He’s a conductor in the sense that he gives direction to his team, unifies their vision and plays to their strengths. The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription is at not only a watch that is made by a talented group of people. It’s a watch that feels like it comes from a singular vision. Simons vision.
This one will be big, folks.
Head to simonbrette.com for more.
Cya in the next one.
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