Watchmaking and horology can be confusing, this glossary of watchmaking terms should help.
For enthusiasts and insiders—grasp the language of horological craftsmanship, certification, provenance, and the modern watch market.
The outer shell that protects and defines a watch—learn the terms for bezels, crowns, crystals, and other vital exterior elements.
A bezel is the ring surrounding the watch face, which can be fixed, rotating for functionality like timing, fluted for decorative purposes, or made of ceramic for durability and scratch resistance.
Learn MoreA cabochon in watchmaking refers to a polished, convex gemstone or decorative element, often used on watch crowns or dials, without facets.
Learn MoreA caseback refers to the back cover of a watch, which can be exhibition (transparent to display the movement), closed (opaque and not see-through), or solid (providing additional durability and protection).
Learn MoreRolex's proprietary ceramic material used in bezels for exceptional scratch resistance, durability, and permanent color retention.
Learn MoreHigh-tech, scratch-resistant material used in watch cases and bezels for exceptional durability, lightweight comfort, and fade resistance.
Learn MoreCoin Edge refers to a type of watch bezel that features a smooth, rounded edge resembling a polished coin, commonly found on luxury watches and known for its timeless and elegant appearance.
Learn MoreA Compression Case is a type of watch case that increases its water resistance as external pressure increases, using the pressure to compress the case back against the gasket, enhancing the seal.
Learn MoreA Crown Guard is a protective feature on a watch case designed to shield the crown from accidental damage or impact.
Learn MoreGold is a precious metal often used in watchmaking for its luxurious appearance, durability, and resistance to tarnish, enhancing both the aesthetic and value of timepieces.
Learn MoreA Helium Escape Valve is a feature in dive watches that allows helium gas to escape from the watch case during decompression, preventing damage to the watch.
Learn MoreA Hunter Caseback is a type of watch case with a hinged metal lid that covers and protects the watch face, often used in pocket watches to prevent damage to the glass crystal during activities like hunting.
Learn MoreLucent Steel is a premium steel alloy used by Chopard in watchmaking, known for its high scratch resistance, greater tensile strength, and being composed of up to 70% recycled materials.
Learn MoreLug-to-lug refers to the distance between the two ends of a watch's lugs, which are the protrusions that connect the watch case to the strap or bracelet.
Learn MoreOmega's proprietary caseback system ensuring perfect alignment of engravings while providing secure, water-resistant sealing.
Learn MoreJewelry technique where small gemstones are set closely together on watch surfaces, creating continuous sparkle through precise stone placement.
Learn MoreRare, dense precious metal used in high-end watch cases for its lustrous appearance, exceptional durability, and tarnish resistance.
Learn MorePanerai's proprietary platinum alloy offering enhanced hardness and superior scratch resistance for luxury watch cases.
Learn MoreControl buttons on watch cases operating chronograph, calendar, and other complications, often featuring screw-down designs for water resistance.
Learn MoreQuick-release spring bars are components that allow for the easy and tool-free attachment and detachment of watch straps, enhancing convenience and reducing the risk of scratches on the watch.
Learn MoreThe Rolex Oyster Case is a pioneering waterproof and dustproof watch case design introduced by Rolex in 1926, featuring a hermetically sealed construction that protects the movement from external elements.
Learn MoreA spring bar is a small metal rod with a spring-loaded mechanism used to attach a watch strap or bracelet to the watch case.
Learn MoreLightweight, durable metal used in watch cases and bracelets for exceptional strength, corrosion resistance, and hypoallergenic properties.
Learn MoreA Tonneau Case is a watch case design characterized by its barrel-like silhouette, featuring a rounded and elongated shape that differentiates it from traditional round or square cases.
Learn MoreThe Triplock Crown is a patented winding crown system used in Rolex watches, designed to provide enhanced water resistance by incorporating a triple-sealed mechanism.
Learn MoreThe beating heart of every watch—discover the intricate systems that power timekeeping, from classic mechanical calibres to high-tech complications.
Amplitude refers to the maximum angle of oscillation of a watch's balance wheel, which is crucial for maintaining accurate timekeeping.
Learn MoreThe anchor escapement is a mechanism in mechanical watches that regulates the release of energy from the mainspring to the gear train, ensuring accurate timekeeping by controlling the movement of the balance wheel.
Learn MoreAnglage is the meticulous hand-finishing process of beveling and polishing the edges of watch components to enhance their aesthetic appeal and craftsmanship.
Learn MoreAn Annual Calendar is a watch complication that automatically adjusts the date for months with 30 or 31 days, requiring manual correction only once a year at the end of February.
Learn MoreAnti-magnetic refers to a watch's ability to resist the effects of magnetic fields, ensuring accurate timekeeping by protecting its movement from magnetic interference.
Learn MoreAn automatic watch, also known as a self-winding watch, is a mechanical watch that uses the natural motion of the wearer's wrist to power itself.
Learn MoreWatch component supporting the balance wheel, allowing free oscillation for accurate timekeeping and precision regulation.
Learn MoreThe balance wheel is a crucial component in mechanical watches that oscillates back and forth, regulating the timekeeping by controlling the release of energy from the mainspring.
Learn MoreA barrel is a cylindrical component in a watch that houses the mainspring, providing the energy needed to power the movement.
Learn MoreTiming discrepancy between a watch's ticks and tocks, indicating escapement imbalance that affects timekeeping accuracy.
Learn MoreThe Breguet Overcoil is a type of hairspring design that features an upwardly curved outer coil, improving the timekeeping accuracy and isochronism of a watch.
Learn MoreA bridge is a component in a watch movement that holds various parts such as gears and wheels in place, ensuring stability and alignment.
Learn MoreCalibre refers to the specific model or design of a watch movement, indicating its unique mechanical configuration and features.
Learn MoreA chaton is a small, decorative metal setting used to hold and secure jewels in the movement of a watch.
Learn MoreSpring component maintaining tension against the mainspring's ratchet wheel, preventing unwinding and producing the characteristic clicking sound when winding.
Learn MoreA column wheel is a rotating mechanism used in chronograph watches to control the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph.
Learn MoreA complication is any feature in a watch beyond the simple display of hours, minutes, and seconds, such as a calendar, chronograph, or moon phase indicator.
Learn MoreDeadbeat Seconds is a mechanical complication where the seconds hand jumps precisely once per second, similar to quartz movements.
Learn MoreEscapement is a mechanism in a watch that regulates the release of energy from the mainspring to the gear train, ensuring consistent timekeeping by controlling the movement of the hands.
Learn MoreA Flyback Chronograph is a type of chronograph watch that allows the user to reset the stopwatch hand to zero and immediately restart it with a single press of a button, without the need to stop the chronograph first.
Learn MoreGMT refers to a watch complication that displays a second time zone, typically using a 24-hour format, allowing the wearer to track time in two different locations simultaneously.
Learn MoreSeries of interconnected gears transmitting power from the mainspring to the escapement, regulating hand movement and watch functions with precision.
Learn MoreA hairspring is a slender coiled spring that regulates the motion of the balance wheel in a timepiece.
Learn MoreIncabloc is a shock protection system used in mechanical watches to prevent damage to the delicate pivots and jewels of the balance wheel.
Learn MoreJewels in watchmaking refer to small, synthetic ruby or sapphire bearings used to reduce friction and wear in the movement of a watch.
Learn MoreA Jumping Hour is a complication displaying the hour through a window that jumps instantaneously to the next numeral at the top of each hour.
Learn MoreWatch winding and time-setting mechanism that operates without a separate key, using a crown-operated system introduced in the mid-19th century.
Learn MoreThe lever escapement is a mechanism in mechanical watches that regulates the release of energy from the mainspring to the gear train, ensuring accurate timekeeping by controlling the movement of the balance wheel.
Learn MoreMagnetism refers to the influence of magnetic fields on the accuracy and functionality of a watch, often requiring anti-magnetic materials or designs to mitigate its effects.
Learn MoreA mainspring is a spiral torsion spring of metal ribbon used as a power source in mechanical watches, storing energy when wound and releasing it to drive the movement.
Learn MoreA Minute Repeater is a complex watch complication that chimes the time on demand, typically indicating the hours, quarters, and minutes using a series of gongs and hammers.
Learn MoreAn oscillator in horology is a device that regulates the movement of a watch by maintaining a consistent frequency, typically through the use of a balance wheel or quartz crystal.
Learn MorePerlage is a decorative finishing technique used on watch movements, characterized by a pattern of overlapping, circular graining.
Learn MoreQuartz is a mineral used in watches to regulate timekeeping by generating a consistent frequency when an electric current is applied, enabling precise and reliable time measurement.
Learn MoreQuartz Movement refers to a type of watch movement powered by a battery, where a small quartz crystal regulates the timekeeping by vibrating at a precise frequency.
Learn MoreA Rattrapante (split-seconds) chronograph uses two superimposed hands that can be stopped independently to time multiple simultaneous events.
Learn MoreA regulator is a type of clock or watch designed for precise timekeeping, often featuring separate dials for hours, minutes, and seconds to enhance accuracy.
Learn MoreThe Rolex Dynapulse is a revolutionary escapement system introduced in 2025, designed to improve precision and reduce friction by utilizing a silicon-based, dual impulse mechanism that departs from the traditional Swiss lever escapement.
Learn MoreSilicone is a synthetic material used in watchmaking for its flexibility, durability, and resistance to environmental factors, often utilized in watch straps and gaskets.
Learn MoreSmall Seconds refers to a watch complication where the seconds hand is placed on a sub-dial, typically located at the 6 o'clock position, separate from the main hour and minute hands.
Learn MoreSnailing is a finishing technique in watchmaking where a pattern of circular spirals is arranged in one or more bands on a watch component.
Learn MoreWatch complication that audibly chimes the time at regular intervals, typically on the hour and quarter-hour.
Learn MoreSpring Drive is a unique watch movement developed by Seiko that combines the high torque of a mechanical watch with the precision of an electronic watch, using a glide wheel to regulate timekeeping.
Learn MoreA Swan Neck Regulator is a fine adjustment mechanism used in watch movements to precisely regulate the tension of the balance spring for improved timekeeping accuracy.
Learn MoreSyloxi is Rolex's proprietary silicon hairspring, developed to enhance the performance and reliability of its watch movements.
Learn MoreA tourbillon is a complex watch mechanism designed to improve accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity on the escapement.
Learn MoreVPH (Vibrations per Hour) refers to the number of oscillations a watch's balance wheel completes in one hour, indicating the movement's precision and frequency.
Learn MoreChronograph mechanism engaging vertically for smoother starts, reduced wear, and consistent timekeeping when running continuously.
Learn MoreWhere form meets function—explore the artistry and purpose behind dials, markers, hands, and luminous materials.
Gold alloy treated with iron to create a distinctive blue hue, used for decorative watch elements and luxury dials.
Learn MoreBlued steel refers to a heat-treated steel used in watchmaking, characterized by its distinctive blue color, achieved through a controlled oxidation process, and often used for watch hands and screws.
Learn MoreWatch dial featuring Roman numerals on the upper half and Arabic numerals on the lower half, offering unique vintage appeal.
Learn MoreA chapter ring is a ring mounted on the outer edge of a watch's dial, typically decorated with marks or indices for timing indications.
Learn MoreA dial is the face of a watch that displays time and often features decorative techniques such as sunburst radial patterns, guilloché engraving, enamel finishing, sandwich layered construction, or tapisserie textured grids.
Learn MoreWatch dial featuring signatures of both the manufacturer and retailer, indicating collaboration and often increasing collectibility.
Learn MoreFumè refers to a watch dial finish that features a gradient effect, transitioning from a lighter center to a darker edge, creating a smoky appearance.
Learn MoreGrand Feu enamel is a traditional and intricate enameling technique used in watchmaking, where multiple layers of enamel are applied and fired at high temperatures to create a durable and vividly colored dial.
Learn MoreGuilloché is a decorative technique involving intricate, repetitive patterns engraved on watch dials or cases to enhance their aesthetic appeal and craftsmanship.
Learn MoreWatch dial pointers indicating time in styles like Dauphine, Breguet, Sword, Alpha, Cathedral, and Snowflake for varied aesthetics.
Learn MoreSymbols or numerals on watch dials indicating hours, including applied indices, Roman numerals, or Arabic numerals for enhanced readability.
Learn MoreLume refers to the luminescent material applied to watch dials and hands, such as Super-LumiNova or Tritium, to enhance visibility in low-light conditions.
Learn MoreMicro Painting is the intricate art of hand-painting miniature designs or scenes on watch dials, often requiring the use of magnification tools to achieve detailed and precise artwork.
Learn MoreInner ring between dial and crystal displaying minute markers, tachymeter scales, or branding for enhanced functionality.
Learn MoreRoman Numerals are a traditional numeric system used on watch dials to indicate the hours, adding a classic and elegant aesthetic to timepieces.
Learn MoreWatch dial design featuring concentric circles dividing the dial into distinct sections for enhanced readability and aesthetic appeal.
Learn MoreWatch dial with unique patina and color change from sun exposure, creating a brownish hue highly valued by vintage collectors.
Learn MoreMore than just a way to wear a watch—understand the diverse styles, materials, and mechanics of bracelets and straps.
Alcantara is a durable, suede-like synthetic material often used in watch straps for its soft texture and luxurious appearance.
Learn MoreBracelet refers to the metal strap or band of a watch, with styles such as Oyster, Jubilee, President, Beads of Rice, and Milanese, each offering distinct designs and levels of flexibility and comfort.
Learn MoreA rubber strap is a flexible, durable band made from synthetic rubber, commonly used for securing a watch to the wrist.
Learn MoreA Tropic strap is a rubber watch strap originally designed for dive watches, known for its durability, water resistance, and distinctive crisscross pattern, making it a popular choice for both vintage and modern timepieces.
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